Sunday, February 7, 2010

gray days...

Living in New York the past few years I spent many days in parks, lying on my back looking up at the branches of trees against the sky. With so little green space, it was a way to block out all the cars, and the noise, and the impending need to get back on the subway and go home or back to work.

Being here, parks are almost beside the point, as the green space that is hedged in around buildings pales in comparison to the greens and blues of ocean and jungle that hedge in everything else.

The other day I got off work a little early, and decided to walk over to the park in downtown Hagatna.

Downtown Hagatna is kind of a funny place. I work down there, but rarely spend much time outside of my car.

Just on the other side of the Cathedral Basilica is the Plaza d'Espana -- I think that's what it's called -- a large, open field, spotted with a few wide-branching trees, and remnants of colonial and military buildings from various eras of administration by Spanish, Japanese and American governments.

Because everyone drives everywhere here, and there's no real "downtown" to speak of -- just a series of office buildings surrounded by parking lots -- the park is mostly empty most of the time, except for a predictably timed busload of Japanese tourists unloading during lunch break on their whirlwind island tour, and several homeless people who live in the half-shelter of the open structures.

The park has several old(ish) stone and wooden buildings. Most everything from the Spanish era has been completely destroyed, but there are remnants of remnants. There's an old gazebo, called the "chocolate room" or something like that, because it was used to serve Spanish aristocrats hot chocolate. That building is gone, but the Americans built something similar in the same place, and used it for official functions (again, I think -- I read the plaques all rather quickly).

What's there now may not have survived any of the massive World War II bombing either, but instead may have been built after the fact as a replica.There are few rotting structures and stone archways that might date earlier, but it's hard to tell exactly. They reminded me of Pirates of the Caribbean, despite the fact that it's the wrong colonial government.

Most of the decomposing buildings mark only places, where something older once stood, but which were summarily destroyed by war or typhoon or both.



There are some very lovely spots though -- and in a place where so much has been lost by wind and tide and the march of progress handed out from (often) military overlords -- the little bit of history still left seemed important.

I wandered around for a little while, took pictures, and waited, as I often do in parks.

I sat under the large branches of a tree, looking up a the sky, which was pleasantly gray that day. Lately the weather here has been cooler and drier, and the humidity has been perceptibly less.

And for a second, feeling with the cool wind and looking only at brown branches, bereft of their green leaves for only a few days before they will sprout again, it felt almost like fall.

1 comment:

  1. When we first moved to San Jose, I was overwhelmed and exhausted by the unrelenting intensity of the sun. I didn't even realize how much the constant glare was bothering me until a rare morning of fog about 3 months after we settled here, when for the first time since arriving I felt like I could really breathe.

    Although I've gotten used to the sun by now, I do still relish the roughly sixty or so gray, and especially rainy, days that we get here in San Jose.

    I also often have moments of seasonal disorientation, where for a few moments after first stepping outside I can't remember what time of year it is. Or I breathe a deep, contented sigh of spring, and then remember that it is January. Talking to family who are buried under yet another snow drift and looking down a narrow and dark tunnel of months more of winter, I feel like I might as well be on the other side of the world as I look out on our lush green lawn (the rainy season is the only time it's recognizable as grass) and the thriving community of weeds and poppies in our vegetable garden.

    The seasonal disorientation must be so much more profound in a tropical climate, where things rarely change and bear so little resemblance to North American climate patterns of any season. On the other hand, I doubt you have to worry about vitamin D deficiencies...

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